Updated: Jan 26

Luca Larenza presents the Fall Winter 2021/22 Collection creating a connection with the Campania region by giving life to a Social Responsibility project to restore value to a place, synonymous with excellence in the world.

The shots are set at a UNESCO heritage site: the Real Belvedere in San Leucio.

The historic site was born in 1779 from King Ferdinand's dream of giving life to an autonomous community, founded on the production of the finest silk, now well known throughout the world for its refinement and elegance. The monumental complex contains among its many rooms a small jewel of industrial archeology, a large room with perfectly functioning wooden looms for the production and processing of silk.

The general and important starting point of Luca Larenza's work is precisely the selection of excellent quality raw materials, which are the perfect blank canvas on which Luca Larenza can let his creativity explode, with the creation of garments that never cease to amaze and acquire value over time.

It is also from this specific connecting element that the choice fell on the silk museum, which in addition to representing a piece of Italian culture emphasizes the qualities of the raw materials, an expression of Italian excellence.

According to Luca Larenza, the site is “an extradordinary historical-manufacturing reality on the National scene” and the idea to celebrate it through this project was born during the first lockdown. A break that prompted Larenza to return home, to its origins and to rediscover the artisanal and artistic heritage of Campania.

“After so many years I visited San Leucio and I was fascinated by it. Enthusiastic”.

It was a revealing walk that laid the foundations for experimenting with new possibilities.

After a dialogue with the Officials of the Municipality of Caserta Luca Larenza decided to combine the photographic set with a concrete action. A Social Responsibility project was born, and in agreement with the headquarters of the Fine Arts, Luca Larenza took part in the restoration of the prestigious Silk-Looms dating back to the 19th century, devoured by moths and lack of maintenance, kept inside the Silk Museum.

The works, which began in early December, ended during the first days of 2021.Today, thanks to this intervention these Looms have a new life, they have returned to shine again and continue with pride to perpetrate their historical testimony.

It is a beautiful example of a creative project that finds maximum expression by embracing the concept of sustainability in an unprecedented way, through the enhancement of history, to continue a story that deserves to be heard by those who will come.

The designer has tried to respectfully measure himself with the cultural heritage of San Leucio. San Leucio is therefore a territory that led Luca Larenza to question the past, the secrets of techniques and knowledge that are perhaps obsolete. Therefore, he has personally invested in the restoration of some frames.

Luca Larenza said: “For me it was natural to enhance a piece of my land. I could not turn away. We were able to restore the functionality of the looms and without the experience of expert weavers and carpenters this would have been impossible. One of the most complicated aspects was precisely that of being able to find workers capable of operating on ancient machinery". This is why those professions, now rare, should be defended.

The Silk Museum

The Silk Museum is located in via del setificio, 5, Real Belvedere di Caserta. It is made up of several sections: the industrial archeology section, namely the ancient Silk Factory, the Historic Apartment and the Royal Gardens.

The tour, enriched by multimedia devices that help the understanding of the enormous work behind each silk product, develops over two floors and winds through the nine hand looms that produce brocades, lampas, damasks and the famous "Leucian blanket"; the two enormous twisters and the water wheel that gives them movement; and then the so-called “Bagno di Maria Carolina”, a real indoor swimming pool, the work of the first court painter P. Hackert, and then the rooms painted by F. Fischetti, G.Cammarano; finally, the panoramic terraces of the Royal Gardens.

The history of the Belvedere of San Leucio di Caserta is very fascinating.

It all began in 1773 when the young King Ferdinand IV of Bourbon, who loved to participate in hunting trips, had the wood fenced around the rich Renaissance residence of the Acquaviva princes: the Belvedere in San Leucio.

Ferdinand had the first free Italian compulsory school established here and then introduced a raw silk factory to provide those boys and girls a job once they were educated.

Thus the major specialists in the art of silk came from afar to teach them how to work, build machines and manage production. Many young people left San Leucio for the first internships abroad, returning rich in knowledge to share. Ferdinand encouraged the cultivation of mulberry trees and sericulture for the production of silkworms, thus creating the entire production cycle.

The manufacture of silk made it possible to employ female and male workers at the same time. For this reason the King gave each family a loom to be placed in the center of the house so that each family could love and pass on the art of silk. The houses for the workers were designed keeping in mind all the urban planning rules of the time, to ensure that they lasted over time, and in fact they are still inhabited today.

In 1789 the Royal Manufacture became an autonomous entity through the promulgation of a specific code of laws inspired by the Enlightenment-style social renewal program. There was no difference between individuals, whatever the work they did, men and women enjoyed total equality in a system that hinged exclusively on meritocracy. Private property was abolished, assistance to the elderly and infirm was guaranteed, and the value of brotherhood was exalted.

Ferdinand IV of Bourbon thought of a utopian project to build a large city called Fernandopoli, and construction began with the help of Francesco Collecini, first aide to the much more famous Luigi Vanvitelli.

Following the Restoration, the project of the new city was set aside and subsequently the special community regime was abolished, but tradition and quality in the production of silk fabrics have remained until today.

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On the occasion of “Les Voiles de Saint Tropez” I had the chanche to have a wonderful clothing partnership with Marga, and I'm here to tell you about this.

Teaming up with Marga was an unforgettable experience that I will carry in my heart forever.

The collaboration was born during a dinner in Milan from a chat with Igino Angelini, one of the shipowners.

When I arrived in Saint Tropez for the first day of the Regatta on September 25th I was greeted by a beautiful sunny day. This is the period when in Saint Tropez there is no summer crowd but the weather is still enchanting.

"Le Voiles de Saint Tropez” is the most international and glamorous regatta in the world that takes place every year in the gulf of the Côte d'Azur that bears his name.

This year the regatta took place from 25 September to 9 October 2021 with a record of participation, with 250 boats of all ages and sizes, from twenty countries.

The largest fleet after the French one is the Italian one, with 22 boats. Among these there was Marga (15.56 m), a 10 m International Tonnage built in 1910 on a design project by C.O. Liljegren to participate in the 1912 Stockholm Olympics under the aegis of Queen of Sweden Victoria of Baden, who originally owned the yacht. Nowadays it celebrates its 111th anniversary.

Marga is now owned by Tomas De Vargas Machuca and the brothers Alessandra and Igino Angelini who also own the Shooners Puritan and Orianda, and three other 10M S.I. : Tonino, Astarte and Linth II.

This boat is a jewel of craftsmanship, enhancing all the magic of an old-time savoir faire. It was an extreme boat for its time, able to do incredible performances even after 111 years.

I am particularly proud of this partnership that brings me closer to the poetry of the world of yesteryear hulls, regattas and more. The Sailing world, with its typically nautical uniforms, knots and stitches, has always influenced the design of my label.

And also, Marga represents the perfect synthesis of my idea of fashion: timeless elegance linked to a contemporary and strong taste, in addition to the materials of the highest quality and a graphic use of color.

The boat, which has been restored in three years respecting the initial project, has a mahogany planking and a majestic sail, which inspired the embroidery positioned on the heart - a symbol of the passion needed to revive these stupendous hulls -, of the carry-over long-sleeved polo shirt from the Marga team uniform (that I was honored to create for them!), made in a luxurious Egyptian cotton for a fresh and dry feel and a sporty-chic graphic.

The embroidery, which takes up the foreground sail, is diametrically contrasted by the monogram of the brand, launched on the occasion of the Luca Larenza Spring/Summer 2019 Collection: the Brand's Initials (LL) represented by a Rolled-Up nautical rope.

The color palette is classic: a navy blue base and gold and white embroideries, broken by some surprising bright orange contrasting details, with an unusual use of color which is the brand's signature and the result of an in-depth study with a link to my past as a street artist.

An outfit inspired by the world of sailing from Luca Larenza's Shop

This outfit, with its colors and the fresh and dry feel of the fabrics, would be perfect for a glamourous and comfortable sailing trip.




#sailing #Marga #Diary #SaintTropez